March 7, 2003

When Francesco Bernardone left his native Assisi, Italy, for the Holy Land in 1219, he wanted to either convert the Muslims there to Christianity or be martyred while trying.

He did neither.

Bernardone later was canonized as St. Francis of Assisi. A century after his visit to the Holy Land the brown-robed and -hooded order of friars he founded received from the pope exclusive authorization as "custodians" of the Holy Land

Over the nearly 700 years since then the Franciscans have been more than caretakers of stone and mortar churches and greeters of traveling worshippers. They've also been pastors, since many of the shrines are also parish churches for the Catholics of Palestinian descent who have long lived in the Holy Land - and whose dwindling presence there is a concern.

The Franciscans' presence on the front lines of the faith has often been life-threatening. Last year, for example, Father Amjab Sabbara, Catholic pastor of the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, told gun-wielding Palestinian Muslims to leave the church. (They did so peacefully but later burst their way back in and occupied it for more than a month during a standoff with Israeli soldiers.)

The Franciscans have no plans to leave the Holy Land, despite the ofttimes violent political situation engulfing Israel and its Arab neighbors.

To the contrary, through their Franciscan Foundation for the Holy Land founded in 1994, they have laid the groundwork for a schooling-jobs-housing program they think will preserve a Christian residential presence there.

"We know it's (Christian exodus) going to continue, but we want to stem it and encourage people to stay here. We're focusing on the marginalized (those with no contacts outside Israel)," said Father Peter Vasko OFM, president of the Franciscan Foundation for the Holy Land. He's lived in that area for 18 years.

In just the past few years, 60 Palestinian Christian students have received more than $1 million total in college scholarships. The foundation has bought housing in the Old City and is building new housing in areas near Jerusalem, which it rents out at affordable rates to Palestinian Christians.

Still being developed is a jobs program, though one in Bethlehem - to repair Church structures around the city - has given work to 80 Christian married men who either were out of work or barely bringing in an income.

Those efforts are appreciated by those who want to continue calling the Holy Land "home."

"Without the Franciscans, there would be no Christians living in the Holy Land," said Sammi Wakileh, a member of the Greek Orthodox faith who has a photo shop in the Old City just inside the New Gate entrance.

The foundation's money for these new programs comes from donations, about $800,000 last year. For their everyday needs in maintaining the 74 shrines, 16 schools and three orphanages they have custody of in the Holy Land the Franciscans also receive a share of the money collected on Good Friday that's earmarked for the Holy Land, about $6 million last year.

"About 95 percent of our money comes from Catholics in the United States," Father Vasko said.

Franciscans in the Holy Land - 332 of them from 32 countries - are a diverse group who entered the order at various times of their lives and bring a variety of technical and people skills.

Their common spoken language is Italian. Their main connection is prayer - both private and public displays, such as the noontime Angelus and the prayers before the altars of the Church of Holy Sepulcher that the Franciscans lead every afternoon, young friars working toward ordination singing and walking alongside older brothers and priests.

Father Vasko, 59, for example, was reared in Brooklyn, N.Y., and became a highly successful marketing executive for an Atlanta-based corporation. The owner of two homes and two cars, and with "lots of girlfriends," he said he realized in his late 30s that something was empty. He left that life behind to follow the calling of Christ.

Contrast that with Brother Firas, 27, who was reared in a Middle East country (for security, some people interviewed asked that their last names and home countries not be used) and entered the Franciscans 10 years ago. He will be ordained this spring. He said he hopes to work for peace by encouraging both Christian and Muslim students he teaches through the Franciscan-run schools "to listen to one another."

The head of the Franciscan custody of the Holy Land is Father Giovanni Battistelli, OFM, a native of Assisi who was ordained in Jerusalem in 1960. He sees the mission of the Franciscans to be mediators of peace, to both Jews and Arabs.

The principal of the Terra Sancta (Holy Land in Italian) School in Jerusalem is from Egypt, Father Abdel Masih F. Fahim, OFM.

"It became clear to us that it is very important to build the person and the shrine together," he said, noting that each has its needs.

While continuing vocations to the priesthood are a concern in the United States, the Franciscans don't fret over their future. About 12 men are ordained Franciscan priests each year, Father Vasko said.

"When there are difficult times people turn strongly to God," he said. "They (those entering the Franciscan order) realize God will give them hope. Especially in Jordan, Syria, young men are being inspired by what they see Franciscans accomplishing, which in turn translates into vocations."

The Franciscans think those accomplishments will bear fruit.

"I'm a man of faith, and my faith tells me there will be peace," said Father Fergus Clarke, born in Ireland and a diocesan priest in California before he became a Franciscan 10 years ago. "Our presence reflects the peace of Christ."